Metal choice affects a piece's color, weight, durability, and price as much as the stone does, but it gets far less attention when people shop. Here's what actually differs between the metal options on our rings, earrings, and necklaces.
Gold karat: purity vs. durability
Karat measures how much of a gold alloy is pure gold, out of 24 parts. Pure 24K gold is too soft for everyday jewelry, so fine jewelry alloys mix it with other metals for strength:
- 9K gold (37.5% pure) is the most durable and affordable karat, with a lighter gold tone since it contains the most alloy metal.
- 10K gold (41.7% pure) is a close step up, still very durable, common in North American "karat gold" jewelry.
- 14K gold (58.3% pure) is the most common choice for daily-wear fine jewelry, a practical middle ground between color richness and everyday durability.
- 18K gold (75% pure) has the richest, deepest gold color of the four, at the cost of being noticeably softer and more prone to surface scratching over time.
Yellow, white, and rose gold
Color comes from what's alloyed with the pure gold, not from a different karat:
- Yellow gold uses silver and copper alloys, keeping gold's natural warm tone. It doesn't require replating and tends to suit warmer skin tones and vintage-inspired designs particularly well.
- White gold alloys gold with white metals like palladium or nickel, then is typically plated with rhodium for a bright white finish. That rhodium layer wears down over years of wear and needs periodic replating to keep its brightest white appearance.
- Rose gold uses a higher proportion of copper, giving it a warm pink tone. It doesn't need replating and has become a popular modern alternative to traditional yellow or white.
Platinum
Platinum is a naturally white metal, denser and more durable than gold, and doesn't require rhodium plating the way white gold does, its color is permanent. It's also more hypoallergenic than most gold alloys, which matters for anyone with metal sensitivities. The trade-offs are weight (platinum pieces feel noticeably heavier) and price, it's the most expensive of the common fine jewelry metals.
Silver
Sterling silver (.925, meaning 92.5% pure silver) is the most affordable option across our designs, with a bright white tone similar to white gold or platinum. It's softer than gold or platinum and more prone to tarnishing over time, requiring more regular cleaning to keep its shine, but it's a practical entry point for trying a design before committing to a higher metal tier.
How to choose
- Want the most durable option for daily wear? Platinum or a lower-karat gold (9K-14K) resists scratching and wear best.
- Want the richest gold color? 18K gold, accepting it will show surface wear sooner than lower karats.
- Sensitive skin? Platinum is generally the safest choice; nickel-containing white gold alloys are the most likely to cause reactions.
- Want a permanent white finish with no replating? Platinum, rather than rhodium-plated white gold.
- Working with a tighter budget? Sterling silver or 9K-10K gold offer the lowest entry price without changing the design itself.
Frequently asked questions
Does gold karat affect how a diamond looks?
Indirectly. Higher-karat yellow or rose gold can make a diamond's color grade appear slightly warmer by reflection, which is one reason near-colorless diamonds are often set in white metals or platinum, to keep the stone reading as white as possible.
Why does white gold need replating and platinum doesn't?
White gold is naturally a pale yellow-white alloy that's plated with rhodium for its bright white finish. That plating wears thin over years of wear. Platinum is white all the way through, so there's no plating layer to wear off.
Is platinum worth the extra cost over white gold?
It depends on your priorities. Platinum needs no replating and is more hypoallergenic, but costs more and weighs more. White gold looks nearly identical when freshly plated, at a lower price, with the trade-off of periodic maintenance.
Can I change the metal on an existing design?
Yes, every design across our collections is available in multiple metals, and a fully custom metal combination is available through our custom design service.
Choose your metal
Every piece across Lab Diamond Rings, Men's Jewelry, and our full catalog is available in multiple metal options, or start a fully custom build through our custom design service.