"Cut" gets used two ways in jewelry. It can mean a quality grade, which is how well-proportioned a stone is and which we cover in our 4Cs guide. It can also mean shape: round versus oval versus emerald and so on. This guide is about shape: what each one looks like, how it wears, and the comparisons buyers ask about most.
What are the different diamond shapes?
The nine most common diamond shapes are round, oval, cushion, princess, emerald, radiant, pear, marquise and Asscher. Round, oval, cushion, princess, radiant, pear and marquise are brilliant cuts, faceted for maximum sparkle. Emerald and Asscher are step cuts, with long, flat facets that create a "hall of mirrors" effect. Round is the most popular and usually the most expensive per carat.
Diamond shapes compared
| Shape | Cut style | Sparkle | Looks larger for its weight? | Shows inclusions? | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round | Brilliant | Highest | No (baseline) | Hides them well | Classic, maximum brilliance |
| Oval | Brilliant | High | Yes | Hides them well | Elongating look, more size for budget |
| Cushion | Brilliant | High, softer | No | Moderate | Vintage, romantic feel |
| Princess | Brilliant | High | No | Hides them well | Modern square, good value per carat |
| Radiant | Brilliant | High | Slightly (elongated versions) | Hides them well | Emerald-like outline with more sparkle |
| Pear | Brilliant | High | Yes | Moderate | Distinctive, elongating |
| Marquise | Brilliant | High | Yes, the most | Moderate | Maximum apparent size |
| Emerald | Step | Lower; "hall of mirrors" flashes | Slightly | Shows them most | Clean, architectural, Art Deco |
| Asscher | Step | Lower; geometric flashes | No | Shows them most | Square Art Deco look |
Emerald cut vs radiant cut: what's the difference?
Emerald and radiant cuts share the same rectangular outline with cut corners, but they're faceted differently. An emerald cut is a step cut: long, parallel facets give broad flashes of light and a calm, glassy look, but they show inclusions and color more easily. A radiant cut uses brilliant faceting, so it sparkles far more and hides inclusions better. Choose emerald for an elegant, understated look and a high clarity grade; choose radiant for maximum sparkle in the same shape.
Oval vs round diamond: which is better?
A round diamond has the most sparkle and is the classic choice. An oval has nearly as much sparkle, looks larger than a round of the same carat weight because it's elongated, and usually costs less per carat. Ovals can show a "bow-tie", a darker band across the middle, so check photos or video before buying. Choose round for maximum brilliance and a timeless look; choose oval for more visible size and a finger-lengthening effect.
Which diamond shape looks biggest for its carat weight?
Elongated shapes look biggest. Marquise, oval and pear cuts spread their weight across a longer outline, so they cover more surface area from the top than a round, cushion or princess of the same carat weight. Marquise maximizes apparent size more than almost any other shape. A deep, poorly proportioned stone can look smaller than its weight suggests, so cut quality matters too.
Shape by shape
Round brilliant
The round brilliant is cut specifically to maximize light return, and it's the shape most associated with "diamond" in general. Its 57 or 58 facets are engineered for brilliance above all else. That's part of why it's the most popular and typically most expensive shape per carat: more of the rough stone is cut away to achieve those proportions.
Oval
An elongated version of the round brilliant's facet pattern, the oval offers similar brilliance with a shape that can create a flattering, elongating effect on the finger. Ovals also tend to look larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
Emerald cut
Named for its traditional use on emeralds, this step cut uses long, rectangular facets rather than the triangular facets of a brilliant cut. The result is a distinctive "hall of mirrors" effect instead of intense sparkle. Because the cut displays clarity more than brilliance, clarity matters more here than in a round brilliant: inclusions are more visible in the open facets.
Radiant cut
A radiant combines the rectangular outline of an emerald cut with brilliant faceting, giving more sparkle than an emerald cut while keeping a similar silhouette. It's a practical middle ground for anyone drawn to the emerald shape but wanting more traditional brilliance.
Cushion cut
A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion has a softer, more vintage silhouette than a round brilliant. Its sparkle is warmer and slightly less intense, often described as "crushed ice" in modern cushion cuts.
Princess cut
A square brilliant cut, the princess combines brilliant-style faceting with sharp, modern corners. It retains more of the rough stone during cutting than a round brilliant, which can make it a relatively efficient choice for carat weight per dollar. Its pointed corners are best protected by prongs or a bezel.
Pear
A hybrid of round and marquise shapes that tapers to a single point. Pear-cut stones are often worn with the point facing the fingertips, creating an elongating effect, and read as more unconventional than round, oval or cushion.
Marquise
An elongated shape with pointed ends on both sides, the marquise maximizes apparent size for its carat weight more than almost any other shape. The points should be protected by prongs or V-tips.
Asscher cut
A square step cut, similar in concept to the emerald cut but with a more geometric, symmetrical outline and cropped corners. Like the emerald cut, it shows off clarity more than brilliance, with a distinctive Art Deco character.
How do you choose a diamond shape?
- Want maximum brilliance? Round brilliant, radiant or princess cuts are all engineered for sparkle.
- Want a shape that looks larger for its carat weight? Oval, marquise and pear shapes cover more visual surface area than round.
- Want a vintage or architectural look? Emerald and Asscher cuts prioritize clarity and geometry over maximum sparkle.
- Want something distinctive rather than classic? Pear, marquise or cushion shapes read as more unconventional than round.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most popular diamond shape?
Round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape overall, followed by elongated shapes such as oval, which have grown in popularity for engagement rings.
Why do emerald and Asscher cuts show inclusions more than round cuts?
Their large, open step-cut facets act like windows into the stone, rather than breaking up light the way a brilliant cut's smaller triangular facets do. That makes clarity a more important consideration for these shapes.
Is round brilliant always the most expensive shape?
Generally yes, per carat, since more of the rough stone is cut away to achieve its proportions and it has the strongest demand of any shape. Princess and radiant cuts tend to retain more of the rough stone, which can make them relatively efficient choices.
What is a bow-tie in an oval diamond?
A darker, bow-tie-shaped area across the middle of some oval, pear and marquise diamonds, caused by how light passes through the stone. A slight bow-tie is normal; a strong one dulls the look, so check photos or video before buying.
Can any shape be used in a custom setting?
Yes. Every shape we offer can be built into a custom ring, earring or necklace setting through our custom design service.
Explore shapes across our collections
Browse Lab Diamond Rings and Stud Earrings to see these cuts in real designs, explore certified loose lab-grown diamonds, or start a custom piece around your preferred shape through our custom design service.
