"Cut" gets used two ways in jewelry, as a quality grade (how well-proportioned a stone is, which we cover in our 4Cs guide) and as a shape, round versus oval versus emerald and so on. This guide is about shape: what each one looks like, how it wears, and what it tends to suit.
Round brilliant
The round brilliant is cut specifically to maximize light return, and it's the shape most associated with "diamond" in general. Its 57 or 58 facets are engineered for brilliance above all else, which is part of why it's the most popular and typically most expensive shape per carat, more of the rough stone is cut away to achieve those proportions.
Oval
An elongated version of the round brilliant's facet pattern, oval cuts offer similar brilliance with a shape that can create a flattering, elongating effect on the finger. Ovals also tend to look larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight, since the elongated shape covers more visual surface area.
Emerald cut
Named for its traditional use on emeralds, this step cut uses long, rectangular facets rather than the triangular facets of a brilliant cut, producing a distinctive "hall of mirrors" effect instead of intense sparkle. Because the cut prioritizes clarity display over brilliance, clarity matters more here than in a round brilliant, inclusions are more visible in the open facets.
Radiant cut
A radiant cut combines the rectangular outline of an emerald cut with the brilliant faceting pattern of a round cut, giving more sparkle than an emerald cut while keeping a similar elongated silhouette. It's a practical middle ground for anyone drawn to the emerald shape but wanting more traditional brilliance.
Cushion cut
A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut has a softer, more vintage silhouette than a round brilliant, with a warmer, slightly less intense sparkle often described as "crushed ice" in modern cushion cuts.
Princess cut
A square brilliant cut, princess combines brilliant-style faceting with sharp, modern corners rather than the cushion cut's rounded ones. It retains more of the rough stone during cutting than a round brilliant, which can make it a relatively efficient choice for carat weight per dollar.
Pear
A hybrid of round and marquise shapes, tapering to a single point, pear-cut stones are often worn with the point facing toward the hand's fingertips, creating an elongating effect. It's a distinctive shape that reads as more unconventional than round, oval, or cushion.
Marquise
An elongated shape with pointed ends on both sides, marquise cuts maximize apparent size for their carat weight more than almost any other shape, since the elongated silhouette covers significant surface area relative to its actual weight.
Asscher cut
A square step cut similar in concept to the emerald cut but with a more geometric, symmetrical outline and cropped corners. Like the emerald cut, it shows off clarity more than brilliance, with a distinctive Art Deco character.
How to choose a shape
- Want maximum brilliance? Round brilliant, radiant, or princess cuts are all engineered for sparkle.
- Want a shape that looks larger for its carat weight? Oval, marquise, and pear shapes cover more visual surface area than round.
- Want a vintage, architectural look? Emerald and Asscher cuts prioritize clarity and geometry over maximum sparkle.
- Want something distinctive rather than classic? Pear, marquise, or cushion shapes read as more unconventional than round.
Frequently asked questions
Which diamond shape looks the biggest for the same carat weight?
Elongated shapes like oval, marquise, and pear cover more visual surface area than round or square shapes of the same carat weight, so they tend to look larger from the top.
Why do emerald and Asscher cuts show inclusions more than round cuts?
Their large, open step-cut facets act like windows into the stone, rather than breaking up light the way a brilliant cut's smaller triangular facets do. That makes clarity a more important consideration for these shapes specifically.
Is round brilliant always the most expensive shape?
Generally yes, per carat, since more of the rough stone is cut away to achieve its proportions and it carries the strongest demand of any shape. Shapes like princess and radiant tend to retain more of the rough stone, which can make them relatively efficient choices.
Can any shape be used in a custom setting?
Yes, every shape we offer can be built into a custom ring, earring, or necklace setting through our custom design service.
Explore shapes across our collections
Browse Lab Diamond Rings and Stud Earrings to see these cuts in real designs, or start a custom piece around your preferred shape through our custom design service.